Visit Sultans' Land - Istanbul, Turkey (Day 2)

We woke up to a perfect day for sightseeing, sunny and a little bit cool, fit for walking.  We started our day with breakfast on the top floor of our hotel, Hotel Alzer.  I pretty much stuffed myself with bread, cheese, boiled egg and cucumber.  somehow, I don't really eat cucumber back home but, to have it here with cheese was pretty good.  First thing on our agenda today was to visit Dalmabahce Palace which is on another side of the sea.  Istanbul is actually quite convenient to travel around as there are several trams going to different areas.

Ref: http://www.urbanrail.net/as/tr/istanbul/istanbul.htm

We got on our nearest stop which was Sultanahmet (Tram T1).  It was about 5 mins walk from our hotel and very close to Hagia Sophia.  The tram fee is fixed at 2TL.  We needed to buy the token from a machine.  To go to Dalmabahce, we needed to take the tram to the end of the line, at Kabatas.  The ride took us across the Bosphorus, to the Asian side.  Crossing a continent is that easy.  From the last stop, we continued on foot to Dalmabahce Palace which was around 5-10 mins walk followed the street.  We walked pass pier and a small park close to the water edge.  That day was their National day (I think), there was some kind of demonstration in a stadium across the street and so, quite a lot of people were present as well as police.  Also, same as other countries, where there are people, there are people selling street food.  There were several vendors selling nuts and meatball or kebab.  Actually, the meatball in pita bread looked really yummy. 

However, we just had breakfast so, end of story.  As we approached the gate of Dalmabahce Palace, we could see one of the tourist focal point, a Turkish soldier in front of the palace gate.  That might not sound like anything much.  What made this guard different from the guard in front of the Buckingham palace were that he stood right in front of the huge white gate and not on the side like other places and they had a small podium for him to stand on.  I think the main purpose was to show off.  Also, his posture was what set him apart from other guards, the right hand was holding a gun and the left hand grabbing a knife behind his back, ready to stab someone (sounds cruel, I know).  Also, I think his winter uniform was rather cool.

When buying ticket, we had a choice of the seeing the main building only or main building and harem which cost a little more.  Well, since we already there and we had time, why not go for a complete look.  Once we enter, we had to walk through a beautiful garden with flowers and fountain.

The building of Dalmabahce Palace started in 18th century and it cost a fortune (no surprise there), five million Ottoman gold coins or 35 tonnes of gold!!  Dalmabahce was built in a combination of baroque and neo-classical design.  It's so beautiful with intricate detail from floor to ceiling and decorated with European furniture as well as treasure from different countries.  However, one thing that appeals to me the most is all the grand chandeliers in each room, not to mention the massive one which still is the largest Bohemian chandelier, located in the center hall.

Tourists can only enter the palace with guide so, we had to wait for the English tour a bit.  On entering, we were required to cover our shoes with plastic bags which were provided.  On the inside, photograph is no longer allowed, probably to preserved the color or simply just to avoid traffic jam (which happened even without camera).  However, it was ok to take picture inside when I was there last time so, I feel very lucky to get all the pictures of chandeliers.  Here are some pictures from my last trip back in 2008, just for some idea.

After went around up and down inside the palace, we emerged through the right side and at the water edge.  Looking at the exterior of the palace, it somehow gave a feel of being built with marble, a grey marble.  It just looked so grand.

We went around the back of the main building in order to continue with the tour of harem.  The procedure was the same as the main building, guide tour, plastic bags and no photo.  The feel of this harem was totally different from that of Topkapi basically from the design.  Moreover, this palace is much smaller and somehow more intimate, that's just how I feel.  Again, these are from my last trip.

We got out from the harem around noon.  So, we decided to have a bit of rest in front of the palace cafe because we knew that we still had a lot of walking to do before getting to lunch place. 

We went around another side of the main building and found a garden of eden (actually a small gardent area) with green, fountain and a few kind of poultries like chiken, guinea fowl and peacock. 

We left from the same way we came in.  After leaving the palace ground, we stopped for a photo opportunity along the water edge before continued to the tram.  

Actually, our plan that day was to take another F1 tram from Kabatas to taksim square.  Unfortunately, because of the demonstration, all transportation was closed around Tasim square.  We could take the T1 tram to another stop and walk but, we didn't feel like braving the crowd so, we changed our destination.  We took T1 tram back to another side of Bosphorus and got off at Eminonu.  We decided to explore the Spice Bazaar instead and leave Takim square for another day.  But first thing first, we need a proper lunch and I knew exactly where we needed to be, Hamdi Restaurant.  When I came here last time, the hotel said that this place has the best kebab and I truly thought so when I had it.  So, when I planned this trip, I knew that I had to have a meal at Hamdi.  Now, we were here, I kind of have a craving their kebab.  

From the tram stop, we had to go through an underpass which was more like an underground market, and we popped up right in front of the Yeni Cami or The New Queen Mother's Mosque.  This another huge mosque was built in 17th century and I found it rather amazing to be commissioned and watched over by woman, the Queen Mother of Sultan Mehmet IV.  

She was later buried here along with her son... Mother, no matter who, where, and when, is still a mother, had to always take care of her son.  We didn't go inside because we saw a lot of prayer and didn't want to disturb them so, we only looked around.  On one side, there was where the prayers came to wash before going inside.  There was also a row of shoeshines, don't think they had to do with any kind of ritual but, they stood out because of their equipments were golden, very old style and traditional looking.  

To the side of the entrance, there were people selling pigeon food and there were a large flock of them around...waiting.  I'm not afraid of birds but, I did mind if they poop on me or hit me since they were flying very close.

We then walked toward the Spice Bazaar.  Hamdi is very close to it, just to its right (if facing the bazaar).  

We got there around 2pm but, the restaurant top floor was still packed with people.  It just showed how good this place is.  No more than 5 minutes from when we sat down, they brought out a tray of meze for us to choose.  It kind of reminded me of a old style dim sum restaurant where they would bring out various kind of dim sum in carts.  In the big tray, there were many different kind of dips for example, hummus, dips made from eggplant, tomato and yogurt.  There were also grilled eggplant in tomato sauce and rice wrapped in wine leaves, can't remember them all.  For today, we chose grilled eggplant in tomato sauce and some kind of vegetable dip.  Honestly, the dip might not look appetite for some but, it was delicious and so as the eggplant.  

We used the bread to mob up the sauce and I was already so happy.  But, just the dip would not totally satisfies our belly.  We ordered two kinds of kebab to share.  One was a kebab with pistachio nuts.  I had this last time and I really like it.  The meat was a bit charred on the outside and juicy inside, seasoned with spice and herbs and it was mixed with pistachio so it had a little nutty taste as well as some texture.

We also order kebab with yogurt which was a flattened kebab served on a bed of bread and yogurt sauce.  It was meaty and creamy at the same time.  This was a whole meal in one plate.  OMG, just looking at the picture and I have the craving again.

We were super happy eating these two dishes.  Hamdi didn't let me down.  By the time we finished our meal, I already made up my mind that I would need to come back here again before going home.  Once we're done with lunch, we headed to the Spice Bazaar.  It had so many interesting thing both inside and on its surrounding area.  On its right side, there were shops selling nuts, cheese and spices.  There were a lot of things that I have never seen before.

We actually came back to buy our pistachio from one of these shops.  In front of these store was an open area and there was an ice cream shop or should I just say vendor.  It was a good idea at the time, some sweet after meaty meal.  Plus the guys at the shop, they not only made and sold the ice cream, they also performed a little trick and joke.  It was their way to attract the passerby.  Once we walked close to their shop, they would ask us to take the cone, my friend did (we just thought that one was enough for two of us) and we were lucky for that.  The ice cream didn't taste like any ice cream we had before.  It was very sticky, the texture was between gelato and gum.  I later learn that it was made from goat milk, boiled, chilled and pounded.

Sorry to say but, we had to throw it away.  Then, we then went inside and it was like a travel through time with an exception of modern cloth.  The building was very old, one of the oldest in the city and second largest after the Grand Bazaar.  It was also very colorful from the merchandises of different shops.  It's called Spice Bazaar but, not all shops sell spice.  There were textile, souvenir, sweets, leather and jewelry shops.

We went surveying around a bit but, we already made up our mind that we shouldn't buy anything since we would be traveling for almost a week more.  One thing that is common in all the market of Islamic cities is the selling technique of the merchants.  They are very energetic, enthusiastic, talkative and way too friendly.  Same as this Spice Bazaar.  When we were walking around, it was like they were so desperate to talk to us, asking where we from, how long we would be here and trying to have us sample their goods.  It was too friendly that it became scary.  I was saying 'no thank you' over and over.  A couple years ago, we were in Egypt and had to face similar situation, or even worst because people there also asked our name.  However, one merchant or a guide (can't remember) told us that, they didn't mean to do any harm.  That was just their way of being friendly, they only wanted to get to know you and made conversation.  That was part of their culture, their hospitality.  It did ease us a bit but, most of the time, it was still too much.  I guess because we have been brought up with a caution not to talk to stranger and not to drink or eat what strangers give us.  Anyway, we survived our walk in the bazaar.  Then, we left through the back gate and walked around the surrounding area of the bazaar which filled with cloth, toys and jewelry shop.  I must say that things they sold around here was really cheap.  I bought a silver ring with some precious stone for several LT but, we had to be very selective.  We were walking in a small alley on the side (I think the left side of the bazaar, same side as Hamdi) that we found a small pastry shop selling, Turkish sweets, called Gaziantep.  So, we decided to stop here for an afternoon tea but with Turkish tea.

We each got a piece of baklava (for this super sweet pastry, one was more than enough) and a tea or coffee (tea for me).  I don't eat really sweet stuff but, somehow a sip of turkish tea after a mouthful of over-sweeten Syrup soaked baklava was really good, I quite enjoy it.  Also, the staff was quite entertaining as they liked to tease people especially tourists.  Then, we went round to the front of the bazaar and crossed the street to Galata Bridge for a view of the two continents and Bosphorus.  It's a two tiers bridge, top tier is for vehicles and lower tier is cafe and restaurants.  

We started on the lower level, surveying the small restaurants and cafes.  Most of the restaurants there sell seafood, since they are all so close to the sea.  As for the cafe, everyone of them has to have an outdoor area with very low couches.  People were having drinks, both alcoholic nad coffee.  Quite a nice spot to hang out with friends, drinking chatting and at the same time enjoying the view (or they might not since they probably see it all the time). 

Then, we went to the upper deck which was the combination of all the locomotion, cars, tram and pedestrian.  The tram run in the innermost lane and it's sandwiched by streets.  The outer lanes on both sides are for people.  There combination of local communters, tourists, street vendors and strangely, fishermen.  There were perhaps hundreds of people with fishing poles along both sides of the bridge.  Most were amature but, there were some of them who were very well-prepared with complete gears.  I didn't think that there would be anything for them to catch.  But, actually there were! small fishing like sardine.  Looking into some buckets and I kind of felt sad.  Sad for the fish because they were small and appeared to be young.  Also, sad for the fishermen, so much efforts for tiny little catches.  Then again, this might not be about the meal but, more like a hobby, for pleasure and socialization. 

We then, took our leave and went back to our hotel by tram for a little rest before dinner.  For this evening, we planned to had dinner close to Taksim Square, hopefully by that time the demonstration would be over.  I found a place called Cicek Pasaji on the internet.  It was a small gallery with several restaurants.  The thing that drew me to this place was that, from the picture, it was like a miniature version of the Galleria in Milan.  
We took a cab there because the tram to Taksim area was cancelled earlier.  Well, it was a ride that we had to regret.  We got our cab from around Sultanahmet station.  We didn't know what we were getting into but, at the time, we thought that we were pretty lucky to get the cab so easily.  Then, we started to feel that he was taking us around, on a less direct way but, still we thought that it was because there was the demonstration.  We gave him the address of the place we wanted to go.  He ended up took us to an alley which was a few blocks away from our destination with an excuse that the place we wanted to go was on a walking street, he could not get there.  (I do think that there were other alley that he could take us to that was closer.)  Anyway, that wasn't too bad, we could walk around.  It was getting dark now and, in the alley that he parked, it was even darker.  I remember that the taxi fee was rather expensive (because he drove around a bit) and I didn't have small bill.  So, I gave him 50 TL bill.  The instance that he took the bill, he turned to us and said that I gave him 5 TL bill and he proceeded to show us the bill.  We were totally caught of guard and honestly, a bit embarressed.  Because it was dark, I wasn't 100% sure that I gave him 50TL, I thought I did.  So, my reaction was to say sorry, took the 5TL and gave him another 50TL.  Once we got off the cab and were walking toward the restaurant, I mentioned to my friend that I thought I was being tricked.  However, I wasn't sure so when we got to the restaurant, I counted all the money I got and found that I was missing 50TL.  That son of a xxxx really tricked us!!  I was mad and actually amazed at the same time.  He was like a magician cabby.  We went through what happened and agreed that he only took my first 50TL for like a second.  It was like he took it, brought it to the front to look at it and returned it to us.  We didn't see when he switched the bill.  We certainly didn't suspect anything.  I actually didn't tell anyone when I got home about it because I kind of feel embarresed but several months later, I heard about a similar incidence that occured with my relative's friend.  Now I feel a bit better that we were only the only one who fell for this trick.  So, be careful everyone!!
Anyway, back to our trip.  We got off the taxi somewhere along Istiklal Caddesi.  It's one of the street that leads from Taksim Square.  We were walking away from the Taksim Square, according to the magician cab.  It wasn't supposed to be far from where we were dropped off but, at some point, we walked pass the entrance.  Actually, this street was very charming with shops and cafe lining on both side and a very old tram line.  We thought that we really had to come back and spent times here.  

However, it was raining and we were getting hungry so, a few block off and we started to feel that it wasn't right and need to find the restaurant quickly.  So, we asked a security guard of a store and he pointed us back the way we came.  Cicek Pasaji is at the corner of Istiklal Avenue and Sahne street.  It turned out that the picture I had of the entrance was the entrance on Sahne but, we were on Istiklal, how dumb.  Inside, there were several restaurants selling pretty much the same thing, seafood and turkish food.  The waiters seemed to be competing for customers but, at the end, we suspected that they had the same owner.  The competition was more like for fun and for show.  The environment inside was kind of pretty but, not as nice as in the picture.  I think I might have expected too much.

We settled with a restaurant at the corner so that we could see the surrounding.  We had a somewhat simple meal of meze and fish for main course.  The waiter showed us the fresh fish but, tactfully avoid giving the exact price for it.  I had pan fried sole, my favorite fish.  The food was so so...it was a tourist place.  The price was a little high but,  not a total rip off.  I certainly couldn't afford another rip off that night.  After dinner, because it was a bit late in the night and most of the shops were already closed, we left for hotel.  Tomorrow would be another all day walking day.


To be continue ...