Journey Along Romantic Danube River - Other Austrian Cities (Durnstein and Melk)

Today, we were cruising along Wachau Valley and visiting 2 small Austrian cities: Durnstein and Melk.  I was so excited because this would be the first time on that trip that we cruised during the daytime and so, we would get to see the landscape and small towns along the river.  I have seen some pictures of this area before and it looked so peaceful and pretty.  Also, We would get to visit small towns which we could never come by ourselves. 
Ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C3%BCrnstein
We woke up in Durnstein (or at least I did) which is a small town located in the state of lower Austria (actually, on the map,  it is rather high up in the Eastern side of the country).  This is one of the top destination for those who come to visit Wachau Valley because basically it is so cute and it also has some historical significance as this is where King Richard the Lion Heart was captured and imprisoned.  What was left of that castle was still present on top of its hill.  For this morning tour, our cruise offered 3 options; regular walking tour, active walk and mini train. 



And as usual, we splitted, I went on an active walk.  Actually, the mini train was rather cute but, in such small town, its accessibility was quite limited.  The weather was very suitable for our walking team as it wasn't too cold so, light jacket was enough and it was cool enough so, we wouldn't get sweaty easily (especially for me).  We, the foot soldier, started off first.  The guide first gave us the background of Durnstein as we walked along the river Danube.



Ref: http://www.duernstein.at/
Then, we got up to a small street and crossed to a small vineyard.  While the guide was giving us the pictures of the past, we were soaking in the environment, the vineyard, town and the ruin on top of the hill.  Though, the vines were still fully revived from the past season cut, the background actually made up for that.
Then, the guide took us along to admire the Stiftskirche and its Augustine Monastery.  At first, we didn't (or at least, I didn't) know what to expect to see.  I was basically enjoy looking at the sight across the bank as well as the 16th century old houses on our right until the blue tower appeared.  
This Baroque church was built around 17th century.  Its white and blue (very blue) facade was a contrast to the adjoin yellow building.  As we walked, we could see more and more of the church.  It was kind of exciting...at first, we could only see the topmost then, half the tower and then, the rest of it.  It was like an unveiling of a new historical significant except that this one was very old (maybe I'm a bit too dramatic, again).  It was neck-breaking to keep starring at the tower because it was very tall and we were almost at its base.












We didn't get to see the inside of the church, didn't even know whether we were allowed inside.  It must be great to be able to sit against (not literally) the beautiful tower and admire the scene along the river bank.  By the way, the church itself was not actually on the river edge.  It was behind a fortified riverbank which helped protecting it and the town from flood.  Closed by the church, there was a dock and the town set up some benches as well as a small coffee shop for the visitors during the summer time...how nice!
Anyway, we back track a bit to find an entrance to the city center.  The entrance looked like a small tunnel...mysterious climb to the unknown.  We basically walked under the old church and once we passed that over-pass, we faced with a short climb up to town.  It was quite damp and slippery but, I just love the feel of it.  We emerged to the town main street, Hauptstrasse.  it was probably the longest street in town, which actually wasn't very long at all.  While it lacked the size, it surely made up in look and feel.  It was kind of funny that once everyone was up on that main street, all we could hear was 'Ohhh', 'Wow' sounds.  Don't get me wrong, I did it too.  It was super super cute!! I honestly can't remember every place that we have been so, here are some pictures of the town.

After walked around the town a bit, it was time to hit the higher ground.  We went through an alley between a small wine shop and St. Kunigunde church.  That small alley was the way that lead up to what they called Richard the Lion-Hearted Castle.  Sounded like he owned that castle but, it was actually his prison for about a year from 1192-1193.  It was said that King Richard, during his Crusade campaign, insulted Leopold V (Duke of Austria).  So, when King Richard had unintentionally had to travelled through Austria, Leopold V took this opportunity and captured King Richard.  King Richard was found and the ransom was paid by his mother a year later, or so the story was told.  We didn't went up to that castle ruin because it would take around 30 mins climb, the guide told us.  It would definitely took us longer than that to reach the top, maybe 45 mins.  So, the guide took us only to the first turn to admire the view of the city.  


The tour ended there and we all had choices to climb or to go back to town and check out the wine tasting which was provided with the tour.  Since, we were in Wachau Valley, we had to taste some wines.  So, we made our way down and to where the guide told us the wine tasting would be.  But before that, because we still got a bit of time before the wine tasting started, we decided to look around.  First stop, I wanted to check out the St.Kunigunde Church...or actually, its cemetery.  I know that was kind of weird but, because Westerners bury their families and here they really take care of their graves well, most the cemetery that I have been usually look eerie pretty.  We went to look around the cemetery and took some pictures.  I always wondered what I would find in my cemetery pictures, I mean something that I couldn't see with naked eyes.  Well, too bad, that never happened to me.
After walking around the cemetery a bit, we decided to check out some shops before joining the wine tasting.  In the first shop, we actually found the rest of our group (mini train group).  They were completing their tour and just had their wine tasting.  The shop that they were in had all the local goodies from wine to soup for sale.  So, we did a bit of souvenir shopping to kill time.  When it was time, we moved off for our own wine tasting.  It was rather commercial place, for tour only.  
The place provided information about different types of wine from this valley.  I think we tasted around 3 types, both red and white, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and Blauburger.  I would have to say, they didn't taste good at all.  Maybe it was an acquired taste or they were tour-grade wine.  Anyway, we didn't like it.  The only thing that tasted good was the bread that was prepared for us, not for meal but, to refresh our pallet between wines.  
we didn't wait till they finished the whole routine cuz we could not take anymore of their wine.  Strangely, the wine that was served in the dinning room of our ship taste pretty good for me and they said that they were local wines...maybe from different vineyard.  Anyway, we sneaked out and went about exploring.  We decided to walk to the other side of Hauptstrasse.  The streets lined with mostly souvenir shops as well residential building. We stopped at one souvenir shop that showcase products from apricot at its storefront.  Apricot was another fruit that was grown a lot in this area and they really know what to use it for.  Mostly I saw juice and liquor.  The owner was inviting us to taste them and so, not to be rude (actually we wanted to), we tried and were very impressed by the taste.  The apricot was so fresh, it juice was very tasty and when it was incorporated with liquor...it was yummy.  There was no way we would not get them.  Then, we moved on.  We also stopped at some other shops for more souvenir.  It seemed that most of the stuff sold in different shops were very similar.  Eventually, we got to the edge of the town or at least the more commercial area of the town.  It wasn't a long walk at all.  At the end, we found a very nice hotel, Schloss Hotel Durnstein.  
The view from this hotel must be wonderful.  Only from its front gate, we had a panoramic view of Wachau valley plus the other side of town.  


Also, followed the main street, there were many cute houses along side the road.  If we were to come back to Durnstein (some day), we would have to stay in this hotel...that was what we all were thinking.  Hopefully someday, this dream would come true. We backtracked the way we came till then end of this street on the other side of the town.  Then, we took right turn and headed back to the riverbank.
It was almost noon when we reached our ship but, the ship wasn't going to sail until 12:45. The ship prepared Austrian style lunch for us but, since we still had some time, it would be much better if we could get local food for lunch.  Lucky us, there was a small restaurant not too far from the dock.  Even better, the rest of my family were already there so, we joined them.  Our lunch menu was sausages, yum.  I really mean it.  It might look very simple but, Vienna sausages right on the bank of Danube river, sooo good.

We got back on board, full and satisfied.  For the afternoon, we would be cruising along Wachau Valley, so looking forward to that.  After a little wash and rest, I got up to the sun deck just in time for the cruise and got a great view of Durnstein.  It was just so pretty!!

That afternoon, we got to see small town after small town that made up Wachau Valley, Weissenkirchen, Spitz, Willendorf etc.  Along the way, we had our cruise manager as our commentator.  I couldn't really remember much though, just the beautiful view.  Here are what to expect if you happen to go to Wachau Valley.

As if the view wasn't enough, the ship also prepared us an ice cream party.  They had 4 flavors and numerous topping, fruits, nuts, chocolate and chocolate twirl.  
It was perfect and I had to have my second round.  Once we had our ice cream, one by one, we went to our room for some rest because we would be out again for another stop this afternoon.  
We reached Melk around 4pm and we went on a tour to Melk Abbey.  This time, we only had two choices; to take coach up to the Abbey or walk up.  From the distance that we saw from our ship, coach was the only choice.  The ride took around 15 mins but, we were told that that because the coach had to go around the town to get up to the hill, walking would be more direct.  We arrive at the entrance to its garden.  We were told to follow the guide closely as there were many people around (many buses from our ship alone).  So, we didn't get to look at the garden at all.  


The guide took us through the outer courtyard and there we stopped for an explanation about the Abbey, its architecture, history and many more detail about Austrian education system which we didn't need to know.  Apparently, our guide was also a teacher and so she probably wanted to give us some insights about her profession. 
Ref: http://www.planetware.com/map/melk-abbey-map-a-melk.htm
Anyway, the Melk Abbey or Stift Melk was found in 1089.  The castle was originally owned by Leopold II but he gave his castle to Benedictine monks (how generous).  The abbey was actually built later between 1702-1736 in a Baroque style.  The abbey is well known for its impressive fresco inside the church as well as the extensive library which contained manuscript from the medieval time.  The Abbey was separated into different sections.  if I remember correctly, we went around clockwise.  We stopped for the explanation on no.7 Prelate's Court then, entered at no.10 Kaiserstiege or Imperial Staircase.  The color of this staircase reminded me of a very old style cake with pink and white cream, so sweet looking. 
Once we got to the second floor, we went straight to what used to be State Apartment but, it was more like a treasure room now.  It filled with statues, religious objects and relics. Many of objects were gold ...in an all mirror room, ohh the reflection...


As mentioned, there were also some relics (not sure of whom) which fascinated me.  So, I spent a bit of time looking at these relics and a strange thing happened (not a holy or mysterious kind).  All the sudden, a Western woman, probably from our ship, grabbed my arm and asked if I knew what I was looking at.  So, I responded that I knew that that was a relic but, she still went on to explain what the relic was.  Didn't want to embarassed or annoyed her, I just thanked her for the information.  But I wondered whether she thought, because I am a black headed, I wouldn't know about Western culture or whether I looked that puzzled when I was staring.
We got back out to the hall way and the guide pointed out the trick that early builder used to make the hallway looked longer and gave an impression that this place was really big.  The trick was that they made the hall way narrower and narrower (made sense, the farther away the smaller the object), smart! 
We were moving towards the Marble Room but, before entering, there was a model of the whole abbey area.  Even the model was big that it was a bit hard to see the whole thing at any one position.  Thoughtfully, they placed mirrors on the ceiling so, when we looked up, we could see the entire model from the top view.
Then, we entered the Marble Room.  The Marble Room indeed, there were marble from the floor to the ceiling except the fresco on the ceiling.  Actually, that was the first thing I noticed about that room, the ceiling.  The fresco was beautiful.  It came with neck pain though.  
We exited through another on the opposite side and to the outdoor.  This walkway or can I say, balcony went right around the front of the church.  It was a 2 in 1.  From here, we had an awesome view of the church (we wouldn't be able to take picture of the whole church if we were at the ground level) and the town view.  The town of Melk was so cute and I thought that too bad that we might not have chance to check it out cuz, we didn't schedule to dock here for long.  


Pictures, pictures and pictures then, we went to a door on the other side.  Entering the library, this was another reason for this place fame, the collections of their manuscripts.  We were surrounded by books, basically they were on almost every part of the wall.


The guide pointed out one interesting feature of this room that we didn't noticed; a hidden doors that leaded to a hidden reading room.  Once the guide told us, we noticed that this room was indeed narrower than it should be.  The doors were quite difficult to spot as it camouflage among the books.  That was so cool except that we didn't get to open those hidden doors.
This place has not finished with its trick yet.  We left the library via yet another door and the guide took us to a spiral staircase.  A spiral staircase that seemed to be leading us down, down and down.  Like the hidden doors or the lengthen hallway, this one also a kind of illusion.  They simply installed a mirror at the bottom of the stair and on the ceiling.  The reflection gave an impression of the stair spiraling down endlessly.


At the bottom (the real one), we moved on to see the chapel.  When we entered, we had to say Wow! no matter for its goldness, the huge marble (again) columns, the fresco or the grandness of the alter.  I admit that I did gape a bit.  The interior of the church was not big but, they did pack a lot in that small place.  We stayed there for sometimes, just sat there and looked around.  But, after sometimes, I felt kind of cramped, maybe it was the marble or the color.


It was cold in there too.  We left through a tiny door on the side of the chapel.  Once we were outside of this castle, the guide told us that we could went back to our ship with the same bus or we could walk down to the town of Melk and to our ship.  The guide ensured that the ship wasn't far away at all but, the way down might be kind of steep.  Well, I couldn't miss take a peek into this town a bit otherwise, I don't think I can really tell anyone that I have been to Melk.  The only downside of walking back was that I didn't get to see the garden because the stair to the town was almost right at the exit of the building.  The way down wasn't too bad at all.  It was a cobble stone steps with shrubs on the side.  It was rather lovely actually.
The exercise down wasn't too bad.  I think it was yet another illusion of this place, the abbey looked out of reach from the ground level.  This was another small town and cute.  There wasn't much to it, at least from where I walked pass.
The buildings were colorful in pastel tone.  Too bad most of the store were closed already! and it wasn't even evening yet.  What a chill lifestyle.  The only place that opened at the time was a cafe.  

On the way to the docking area and our ship, we found a spot with a great view of the Abbey.  It did look marvelous from down here.
At the last turn to our dock, there was a restaurant and again, I thought that if we had time, we could have dinner and escape another meal on board.  Like a dream come true, we found the rest of our family there, ordering food.  How nice!  We had Weiner sausages for the second time that day but, everyone was totally ok with that.  
It was yummy although, we thought that the one at Durnstein was a bit better.  Sausage and wine at sunset, it was a good ending for the day.


To be continue...  


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