Visit Sultan's Land - Cappadocia, Turkey (Day 6)

The next morning, we packed and got ready for the tour.  We would be leaving at the end of the day.  So, we were told to bring the luggage along so that they could drop us off right after the tour.  We dragged our luggage to reception by ourselves, a little morning exercise.  We didn't have to time to stop and had a good look at the reception office until now.  It was of course a cave and the pattern of the wall inside was very interesting, like a marble cake.  


We were picked up just about the same time as yesterday.  Today, we would get to see Cappadocia's famous strange rock formation.  We headed to Davrent Valley which has rocks in wide variety of shapes.  Instead of diving right in the middle of the rock, we stop on top of the hill first as our guide would like to explain to us about these rocks.  Devrent valley is also called an Imaginary Valley probably because the shape of the rock kind of sparked people imagine about what they looked like.  Our guide explained to us about how these rock came to be the shape they are now.  At the same time, we got a panorama view of the area...macro view before micro view. 



Then, we went down to have a closer look.  There were quite a few vans and buses around and there were specks of tourists all over the valley. 
Our guide encouraged us to use our imagination when looking at these rocks.  She also gave example from her thought.  For me, the area looked like a king oyster mushroom forest.  Most of them did look like king oyster mushroom to me with fatty stem and small blunt cap.  


When we had free time, we tried to imagine our own character out of these rock.  Honestly, I'm not good at this thing so, I could only see the obvious one.  The camel rock was the most easy to spot, I think, with prominent head and hump.  However, my favorite was a bulldog rock (only the head).  Don't know about others but, I could see nose, eyes, ears and wrinkles around the snout.  What do you think?

I had a bit of difficulty getting back to the van not only because I really liked to walk around more but, also because the way down was quite slippery.  The ground was basically rocks and sand plus, some parts were very steep.  My Converse didn't have that much grip so, I had to become an old lady for a moment and slowly walking and edging down.  After regrouped, we continued on to Pasabag, formerly known as Monk Valley.  The name came from the monks who used the rock cones as their hermitage place.


 Our guide gave us an explanation of the place at the entrance so that we could see the whole area.  While we were standing around, there was a new member came to join us.  A huge white dog.  She looked rather thin for her size.  I kind of think that she looked like a mix between a Great Dane with some longer hair breed.  Then again, she could be an example of the local breed.  Anyway, she was quite friendly enough.

 Once finished, the guide gave us some free time to explore.  There was a very old cave church inside that our guide pointed the way.  It was St. Simeon chapel which was built into a fairy chimney with three heads.  The entrance to the chapel was considerably higher than the ground level but, there wasn't any permanent stair for us, just a very flimsy wooden ladder that seemed to be able to break at any time.  Going up wasn't too bad but, going down was terrifying.  The ladder was narrow and I had a feeling that I could fall.  The solution was climbing down backward.  I just felt like an idiot doing it but, at least I didn't fall and hurt myself.  There wasn't much of an interior.  the chapel was small, only a few people could climb in at a time.  At least, it was much cleaner than the other churches that we have see and it wasn't blackened or written on.

 Actually there was another room opposite the chapel that we cold explore but, I had enough of climbing the fragile ladder so, we skipped it.  Heading out to the opening area, we took sometimes to look around.  There were quite a few strange rocks around.  There was a two headed rock which was converted to a security guard office.  Also, to the left were 4 rocks formation with pointed cap.  They kind of looked like bishops with their long robes and pointed hats.


When there was a time for us to leave, we had to a bit of missing person situation as we couldn't find a couple from our tour.  These two were not with us on the first day.  We didn't experience this yesterday because all of us knew when we should be back and we were all mindful of where each other were.  However, these two people basically totally disregarded the time.  We finally learned that they were shopping in one of the souvenir shops.  They said that because our guide didn't give us specific time to come back, only a duration...what!!  What an excuse!!  Even worse, one of them was a teacher.  Then, we thought how could he teach children when he himself had no respect for other people time.  Our guide, being so nice, apologized for not telling them the exact time.  The rest of us didn't think that she should apologize for anything.  After wasting so much valuable time, we moved on to our next destination which was Avanos.  This is where Turkey's famous ceramics ware are made.  Usually, I don't like going to a place like this because I know that they will be trying to sell us things.  However, since I have been to Turkey, I fall in love with their ceramic tile many times over.  The tour took us to one of the famous tile producers.  The shop was more like an underground plant.  It was very cool inside.  Once inside the owner came to greet us and took us through his shop. 
The first area we went was where the artists work.  There were only 4 or 5 people and each of them was working on a very delicate painting on plates and pottery.  The degree of detail was remarkable.  The owner said that these people could only work a short time at a time since they need lots of concentration and intense starring which worn them out quickly.  If they do not get some rest in between, the piece might not come out as good as they intend it to be.  All of them were bending and sticking their faces so close to the plate.  I really admire these people, they didn't use any machine but then, they just look perfect. 



Then, the owner leaded us to a small room, a demonstration room.  It was a square room  with rolls of seating on one side and a demonstration area on another.  It was a semi-circle seating with a short poll sticking from the floor in front of it.  We were offered some refreshment while waiting, an apple tea, how nice.  Between all of us was a huge painted plate.  It was so beautiful but, the owner said that it was not for sale as it had some defect.  We couldn't spot any.

The potter came and started the demonstratation.  He didn't say a word, probably just came from another of this type of room.  To sculp using this old tool, he had to use both his hands and feet.  He first turned the poll with his foot.  Once it got to the right speed, he started shaping a pot.  He was super quick.  In a matter of minutes, he completed a small container with a lid.  We were all so amazed. 
After that, we were moved to their shop.  They offered all kind of pottery, souvenir and tiles.  From the cheap to the very detailed and expensive pottery.  What I liked the most was the tile.  However, I had no use for it.  Besides it was 25EUR per tile so, even if I was going to renovate my place, I wouldn't be able to afford a wall of these tiles.  I ended up with empty handed. 
We knew that our next agenda was lunch and most of us were already hungry, including myself.  So, we, one by one, headed back to our van.  Unfortunately, we were still have to endure that inconsiderate couple.  Once again, we had to wait for them for at least 15 mins and we were all starving.  The most annoying thing was when they came back, they were both happy with no worries that we were waiting for them.  Our guide informed us that we had limited time because we had to catch the plane.  We could check out the next destination first to avoid the crowd since most tourists were having lunch.  The idea did appeal to us but, we were too hungry to do that.  So, we headed for a restaurant first.  It was a big touristy restaurant and our guide told us that we had the liberty to choose any main dish we wanted from the menu with exception of some selections that too pricy.  How nice, we could have kebab!  The waiter tried to discourage us from ordering grill items, probably because it was more costly by telling us that it would take time to cook.  That was ridiculous because we had eaten this type of dish before and it didn't take that unbearably long.  So, we all ordered some kind of kebab.  As with other places, they brought out some meze for us to calm our stomaches.  After around 15-20 mins, they brought our main dish.  I ordered eggplant kebab.  It was the whole eggplant with minced beed in between slice.  I think that the eggplant was a little dry but, it was pretty tasty eating with the minced beef.
And then, we were off again to Goreme Open Air Museum.  This is a big monastery complex which consists of churches, nunnery and dormitory and more.  All of them are in either cave or big fairy chimney.  This place is a must-see for this area as it has the best rock-cut church as well as beautiful fresco.  The Open Air Museum was listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984.  The whole area is quite large.  Unfortunately, we were a little pressed for time so, our guide informed us that she would only take us to what she thought was important to see.  Well, in a normal circumstance, I would be a little annoyed with her decision because I like to have some time to explore.  However, one of the reason for the rush was because my friend and I needed to catch a plane at the end of the day and we still had a couple places to go so, I just dropped it.  


I have to say upfront that my memory about this place is very lousy.  I pretty much remember what I saw and how wonderful it was but, not really the name and stories behind them.  Sorry, just couldn't.  The first structure we could see at the entrance was called the Nunnery.  It is several stories high and housed kitchen, dining hall as well as chapel.  All of them was connected by a series of tunnels.  Too bad we didn't get to see the inside.  There was also another huge fairy chimney with lots of opening and I think it was a dormitory for men.
Our guide took us further inside.  There were several places with tourists lining to enter. Like I said, we didn't have time so, we walked pass a few lines.  As we passed, I was very curious of what was inside.  The guide said that there was some fresco but, not as good as what she planned to show us so, ok.
It is unfortunate that photo is prohibited within the church but, it for the fresco sake.  If I remember correctly, we went into  St. Barbara church with its red paint decoration in a geometric pattern.  However, that most fantastic fresco we were seeing must be the last two places; Dark Church (Karanlik Kilise) and Carikli (Sandals) Church



For these two, we had to go through series of very steep and narrow stairs. Basically, they had to have someone to direct the traffic so that people would not get stuck on the stair.  the frescoes inside these churches were magnificent.  Just imaging the hours that the artists had to put into creating them in dark caves, amazing.  They were pretty colorful too.  

It was too bad that we didn't get to spend a lot of time here.  If I had time, I would definitely get into every single room, chapel and church.  It was well into the afternoon and I think we had two more places to go so, we were basically herded away and to our van.  We went to the village of Uchisar first for a panorama view of the valley.  The view was fantastic...more strange rock formation but, I just couldn't get enough of them.



I took so many pictures, just about every angle and every part of the landscape.  There were quite a few souvenir shops but, we couldn't care less for them even when we still had time.  I rather kept starring at the valleys till we were called.  Walking back to our van, I saw a big dog in a little fenced area.  I think he is an Anatolian Shepherd Dog.  I saw them on tv many times.  People in these areas use this breed of dog to guard their sheep from predators.  They would basically raise this dog along with their livestock.  They are so effective that other places like Africa starts to import them in.  I have never seen a real one till now.
He looked like a gentle giant, just wanted to cuddle with him.  He even had his own underground living quarter just like the ancient people in Kaymakli.  Lastly, the guide said that she would like to show us the pigeon house.  I mean we have seen some pigeon houses in some of our sighting places.  However, this place we were taken to was specifically for pigeon house, a pigeon valley.  We could see small holes in the valley wall.  People basically dug these caves for pigeon to nest in.  They also dug tunnels which would lead to the back of the pigeon nest.  Why would they do that?  Not really for meat, eggs or their chicks but, for their dung.  A lot of effort for bird poop.  


Anyway, the place was gorgeous.  Most of the pigeon house was like small caves but, there were some that look like a pigeon manor (at the bottom of the picture). 
This was actually the end of our tour in Cappadocia.  Next stop, the tour office.  At that point, we hadn't really paid the full tour fee yet.  Actually, it wasn't the office of Insight Travel (the agency we booked the trip) but, we were instructed to paid the rest here.  The office was rather small but pretty cute with only a few staffs.  I think they didn't expect all of us to come in so, basically every staff had to gave us their chairs for us.  After we settle the bill, Uncle Hassan took us back to the airport.  We would be missing our kind uncle driver especially when we reach our next destination.
From Cappadocia, we were heading to Izmir area.  However, there was no direct flight from Nevsehir to Izmir so, we had to take a flight back to Istanbul then, transfer to another flight to Izmir.  I think that it was rather odd that they didn't have direct flight since many people were traveling, many tourists at least.  Many other tours agencies offer direct transfer but, by car or buses which would take many hours.  So, connect flight was find for us.  By time we got there, it was quite late, 11.05pm.  Another uncle driver and his wife were waiting for us.  However, this one didn't look as kind like Uncle Hassan.  Also, the van was considerably older.  Nothing that we could do there.  We were so tired and wanted to get to the hotel so badly.  It was quite a long ride from Izmir to Selcuk where we would be staying for three nights.  Well, the ride was made even longer as we kept being pulled over by police, twice!  Maybe it was a precaution or maybe our van just looked old and suspicious.  I think by the time we reach our hotel it was after 1am already.  Our hotel was called Nilya Hotel, a small bed and breakfast kind of thing.  Well, it was all dark as everybody else was already asleep.  We were even wondering whether there would be anyone to open the door for us.  Luckily there was.  We were shown to our room without any checked in since it was too late.  I think, at that time, the staff couldn't care less either.  After the staff left us, we just took turn to wash then, quickly went to bed as we had sightseeing early in the morning to Pamukkale.


To be continue...

No comments:

Post a Comment